Three Traditional Styles of Japanese Sake
Hello! I’m Uchida, owner of TABiTEBAKO and your guide for this month’s June feature.
Japanese sake has a long and fascinating history, and over the centuries, many different brewing methods have been developed.
Today, the most common brewing method is called Sokujo-moto, but this month we’d like to introduce three much older and more traditional styles of sake brewing: Bodaimoto, Kimoto, and Yamahai.
We’ll dive deeper into the technical differences between them in another article, but today, let’s start with a relaxed introduction to what these styles are and what kind of sake they create.
Bodaimoto
Bodaimoto is considered the oldest sake starter method in Japan, originating around the 15th century at Shoryakuji Temple in Nara Prefecture during the Muromachi period.
One of its unique features is the use of soyashi-mizu, a naturally fermented lactic-acid water.
Raw rice and steamed rice are soaked in water to cultivate natural lactic acid bacteria — something like a “natural starter culture” in modern terms.
What’s even more impressive is that brewing techniques still fundamental to sake production today, such as the three-stage fermentation process and morohaku brewing, were already being established during this era.
Honestly, the monks who developed this method were practically scientists.
Kimoto
Kimoto brewing was developed during the Edo period.
The biggest difference from Bodaimoto is that Kimoto does not prepare a separate lactic-acid starter like soyashi-mizu. Instead, rice, koji, and water are combined together from the beginning, allowing natural lactic acid bacteria to develop inside the tank itself.
Kimoto is also famous for a labor-intensive process called yama-oroshi.
Using large wooden paddles, brewers physically mash the steamed rice by hand.
The brewery workers of the past must have been incredibly strong.
Yamahai
Yamahai was developed during the Meiji era.
Its full name is Yama-oroshi Haishi Moto, which literally means “starter made without the yama-oroshi step.”
In other words, brewers found a way to eliminate the difficult rice-mashing process used in Kimoto brewing through improved brewing techniques.
Today, Yamahai may sound traditional and old-fashioned, but at the time it was actually considered an innovative and highly efficient new technology.
Differences in Flavor
Sake made with these three traditional methods often shares one common characteristic: a rich acidity created by natural lactic acid bacteria.
However, even though all three are “traditional styles,” their flavor profiles can be very different.
Some are deep, bold, and full-bodied, while others are surprisingly delicate and elegant.
Limited Seasonal Releases — Available Only in June & December
(1) Gozenshu Bodaimoto Nigori (Pasteurized)
Producer: Tsujimoto Brewery, Okayama Prefecture
Shipping Available To: Japan
One of the most remarkable things about this sake is that it is brewed using the rare Bodaimoto method — something only a handful of breweries in Japan still practice.
Even more impressive, Gozenshu uses Bodaimoto brewing for all of their sake, and they exclusively use Omachi rice, showing an incredible level of dedication to tradition.
The nigori sake introduced here offers elegant sweetness balanced with a lively acidity reminiscent of a yogurt or lactic-acid drink.
Its bright acidity pairs beautifully with foods like fresh scallop sashimi with a firm texture, as well as fermented foods such as cheese.
We especially recommend trying it with dishes featuring flavorful cheeses like Gorgonzola.
(2) Special Homon Masamune
Producer: Hakutaka Brewery, Hyogo Prefecture
Distributor: Odawaraya
Shipping Available To: Australia, Taiwan, Japan
Shipping Starts: June 1
(Limited seasonal release available only in June and December)
“Sake is Homon, Geisha are from Shinbashi.”
This famous phrase was popular during the Meiji, Taisho, and Showa eras, reflecting how highly regarded this sake was among political and business elites dining at traditional Japanese restaurants.
Made using the highest-grade “Toku A-a” Yamadanishiki rice, brewed with Nada’s famous Miyamizu water using the Kimoto method, and slowly matured to absorb a subtle cedar aroma, this sake offers a luxurious balance of richness and clean finish.
It pairs wonderfully with simmered fish dishes and grilled eel kabayaki.
(3) Mifuku Junmai Karakuchi — Yamahai Brewing
Producer: Mifuku Brewery, Shiga Prefecture
Shipping Available To: Japan, Taiwan, Australia
Shipping Starts: May
This dry junmai sake is one of Mifuku Brewery’s signature products and showcases the brewery’s expertise in Yamahai brewing.
Its characteristic Yamahai acidity and rich rice aroma are often loved by experienced sake drinkers, but interestingly, many wine lovers from Europe and North America also enjoy it because of its vibrant acidity.
It pairs especially well with meat dishes and smoked foods.
Despite being made with the labor-intensive Yamahai method, it remains very reasonably priced, making it a great choice for enjoying at home.
By the way, all of the sake introduced today can be enjoyed across a wide range of temperatures — chilled, room temperature, or even warmed!
First, Try Different Styles
This month’s selection may be a little more for serious sake enthusiasts, but we wanted to introduce some traditional brewing styles with deep history and character.
Opportunities to compare Bodaimoto, Kimoto, and Yamahai side-by-side are surprisingly rare, so if you are nearby, we hope you’ll visit TABiTEBAKO in Tsukiji and enjoy a tasting flight with us.
And if you’re far away, we’d be delighted if you explored them through our online store.
Monthly Sake Recommendations
Every month, Uchida and Seo — both certified Sake Diploma holders — introduce recommended sake based on a different seasonal theme.
(Updated on the 1st of every month)
Shop Here
At TABiTEBAKO, we always carry more than 50 varieties of Japanese sake and over 10 kinds of craft beer from Japan’s remote islands.
Gozenshu Bodaimoto Nigori >>
Homon Masamune >>
Mifuku Junmai Karakuchi Yamahai >>
Our online store offers a carefully selected lineup of especially popular sake, with shipping available to Japan, Taiwan, and Australia.
And if you visit Tokyo and Tsukiji, please stop by our store and say hello!
